Getting started on 2008!

One of my 2008 New Year Resolutions is to keep my garden journal more regularly this year.

Starting off with -- seed starts! I bought a four-foot shop light and two full-spectrum fluorescents at Home Depot, total $30. This is much cheaper than the indoor stations in seed-starting catalogs -- but it does not come with shelving for the plants or a stand for the light. Or extra space in the apartment.

Our apartments in the Union are studios, the kind called SROs, which officially stands for "Single Resident Occupancy." I say it stands for "Standing Room Only." In order to squeeze in a seed-starting station, I stood the light up against a bookshelf and piled milk crates and planting containers between the bookshelf and the microwave. And on the microwave. And in front of the bookshelf. With a holding area in the bathroom for pots that are not sprouting yet.

This first photo shows the shop-light:


In the second photo, you see the motley collection of pots and shelving I have cobbled together:


The wicker baskets are permanent planters; two will stay in the kitchen, along with one of the other trays and a couple of yogurt containers. They contain chives, cilantro, cress, scallions, spinach, leeks, garlic, and two kinds of parsley.


The last of the wicker baskets has been sown with catmint. When it grows up to a nice thick mound, I'll take it into the office for the Cat Executive Officer.


The yellow pot contains one of the three perennial geraniums I planted in the perennial bed in November. I dug one up to bring indoors for a closer look at how & whether it comes to life. It has a small green sprout now; too small to see in the photo yet, but exciting to me. :)


The little plastic box isn't really pearl onions, as labeled; it's bell peppers. The container makes a nice little greenhouse, with plenty of air circulation and no mold problems so far.

There are also a couple of 72-cell Jiffy seed-starting trays. I took the tops off because I was getting mold on some of the cells. Mold's been growing on practically everything. I think I used too much water in the starting soil. Picking off as much mold as I can and then sprinkling with bioactives, Soil Alive! and Dr. Earth's Compost Starter, have helped control it -- maybe just by drying the surface. I've even sprinkled pots that haven't shown mold yet, to be proactive. For the last few batches of seeds, I've mixed the bio-powders in with the soil right at the start, and I haven't seen mold on them yet.

In the bathroom are handmade newspaper pots of far more tomatoes than I will ever plant. :) (You can probably tell which ones were my first efforts!) If they all grow up healthy, I'll give the excess away.


By the time these pots show green, I hope to have bought, begged or borrowed a small bookcase, and be able to arrange the plants better. I also might get a second $30 light setup and put it in the bathroom.

Everything is sprouting up pretty fast except the spinach. (I added some leek seeds and three garlic cloves in the wild hope the would help combat the mold.) It finally dawned on me that it's too warm in here for spinach to germinate; it would actually do better outside. I'm going to take the basket out back tomorrow; after everything gets going, I might bring it back in.

Garden Resolutions for 2008

1. Continue my garden/compost/worm projects. (Wes says it's good to include at least one resolution that you are certain you will keep.)
2. Keep a more thorough garden journal, and post to my garden blog at least once a week.
3. Help start at least one new (organic) urban garden in Seattle.
4. Find a way to continue fresh greens at the Union community meals this winter.
   
5. Help homeless shelters, homeless day programs, and other low-income apartment buildings find ways to grow fresh greens.
6. Add at least one native, heirloom plant to my garden this year, and save the seeds.
   
7. Post at least one "environmental justice" entry each week, making the connection between human issues and environmental issues.

Puzzles of 2007

• What were those clusters of little black (eggs?) on the nasturtiums? (no photos)


• What DOES Holy Basil look like, and why didn't it come up?

Favorite Plants of 2007

The garden produce everybody enjoyed the most:

• Tomatoes, of course.

• Kale. Plant LOTS more kale next year.

• Nasturtiums. Plant LOTS more nasturtiums next year. Wes alone could eat the production of three nasturtium vines. But either make two salads (one with and one without) or put flowers in a bowl on the side for those who aren't freaked by eating them.

• Borage. No worries about getting more - I had volunteers coming up all year!

• All the flowers. Pedestrians like the spot of brightness among the gray city streets, but residents like cut flowers indoors too. Plant more, so there's enough for garden display and indoor display AND eating.

• I planted a variety of cucumbers this year. The most productive were the Asian types (the long, thin ones), and the Su Long was the healthiest. Nobody was put off by the shape, they were all cut up in salads anyway. So next year I'll just plant the Su Long, and maybe lemon cucumbers just because I like the cute little things.

Top 6 Things I Did Right in 2007

1. Compost tea really does seem to increase yield (at least in tomatoes) and cut down on disease. I did have black spot on the green peppers, some damp rot in a couple of lettuces and a pansy (planted too close together) and the downy mildew that swept through the vines (planted too close together). This seems light compared to the myriad of awful things the gardening books warned me could happen.
   


2. I vibrated the tomato blossoms with a battery-powered electric toothbrush, and a huge number of tomatoes set.
   


3. Radishes work well as a "trap" crop. I found this out by accident. The first crop of radishes got pretty heavily chomped - but almost nothing else did.
   


4. Marigolds and borage brighten up the day for everyone; are great in salads; and do seem to be good companions for other plants. They certainly didn't seem to hurt anything.
   


5. Cucumbers and squash love bone meal and kelp. Sea Magic and compost tea make a great foliar feed.
   


6. A layer of worm castings really speeds up seed germination! (I learned this by accident.) Worm castings also make a very effective treatment for black spot. (I learned this in desperation.)
   

More lessons from 2007

1. Learn how to mulch. First I was waiting to mulch until the seedlings came up. Then I was afraid of smothering the seedlings, so I was waiting until they got high enough that I could put mulch under them. Then I was overwhelmed by the difficulties of tucking mulch in around the base of all those plants. I didn't learn until the end of the year that I don't have to "tuck it in" around the stem. :D I also didn't have the money for a good commercial mulch, the transportation to get much of it, or the patience to shred enough newspaper to mulch 70 square feet of ground. And don't use peat moss as mulch. It dries into an almost impermeable layer. I learned that after just one watering. My most effecti ve mulch was coffee grounds. I was cautious with them this year -- next year I'll be less cautious.
   


2. Don't plant cucumbers beside the lavender. Interplanting works great, but cucumbers need LOTS more water than herbs are comfy with. Flowers and herbs, okay; strawberries and herbs, okay; cucubits and herbs, no.
   


3. Mark where you planted! I sometimes forgot where seeds were, and which. The markers of individual nursery plants got lost, too. Not as big deal, but I was surprised when our (one) green pepper turned red; and what I thought was a zucchini turned out to be a sunburst squash while the sunburst squash turned out to be a zucchini.
   


4. Keep up the garden journal better. I started out faithfully recording every sowing, every watering, every feeding, every time it rained, the date I started a new worm bin or compost bin. By the end of September, though, I slacked off on keeping records. Now I wish I had them.
   


5. When you buy nursery seedlings, you can get more than one in a pot. The reason the peppers never thrived turned out to be that they were each two plants, put in together. When I tried to separate multiple seedlings in other pots, they sometimes did not thrive. Again it seems best to steel yourself to cut off extra seedlings early, in order to get one productive plant.
   


6. If you start your own plants, you have more control over what you get. Of three pots I bought all simply labeled "zucchini," one was light green and pear-shaped, one was dark green and round, and one was dark green and, well, zucchini-shaped. This was interesting, but... well, I want to know what I'm raising!
   


7. You have to start the winter garden before winter. I could have more growing now, if I'd realized I had to plant it earlier.
   


8. Foliar feed is pretty much wasted on lightly-feeding plants. Not that it hurts them - but it's a waste of money.
   


9. Don't try starting seeds in potting soil. It works much better in peat moss. And even in warm weather, some plants start better in peat moss than in garden soil.
   


10. Worm castings don't solve everything. They worked so well on the black spot that I tried them on the downy mildew, too. Doesn't work on downy mildew.
    


11. The charts say beets like acid soil, but mine grew a lot better after I added some dolomite lime.
    


12. Sunburst squash tastes better when you let it grow larger. The bite-sized squash on crudité trays is pretty bland, and isn't worth the space in a community garden when you have to make salad for 20 once a week. When it gets to three or four inch diameter, it develops a very pleasant flavor - and goes a lot farther!
    


13. Lemon cucumbers taste better when they are very deep yellow. They are edible when they've just begun to turn orange around the stem, but at that point they taste like almost any other cucumber. If you wait until the whole cucumber is dark yellow with streaks of orange, they begin to taste lemony. In a salad, though, nobody noticed any difference. Plant less lemon cucumbers next year, and use them whole.
    


14. When they say to use compost tea right away, they mean it. I let it sit too long, twice. BIG stink.
    

Top Ten Things I Learned in 2007

1. Don't crowd the plants. I put way too many big-vine plants (cucumbers, zucchini, "sunburst" squash, and pumpkins) in too small a space, with not enough trellising, and I never pruned anything. I ended up with a jungle, got only a few fruits from each plant, and in August downy mildew swept through the whole lot; by the end of September I had to pull up every plant and most of it, I couldn't even mulch. I lost a couple of heads of lettuce and a pansy to damp rot. I couldn't bear to thin the basil, and I ended up with a lot of tiny basil plants that bolted to flower almost right away. In general, thinning results in bigger, healthier, and more productive plants.
   


2. WATCH more closely for disease! I didn't notice the black spot until it was far along; I lost two peppers entirely. I also didn't notice the downy mildew early enough. When I did, I should have sacrificed the affected plants early, and I might have saved more.
   


3. Prune your tomatoes, they like it. Tips I found out too late: As soon as a tomato plant puts out its first flowers, pick off all the leaves up to that point. (And add soil; tomatoes can put out roots from their stems!) Pick off a few leaves every now and then through the season, to let sun reach all the tomatoes (makes it easier to see them for harvest, too). At the very end of the season, while waiting for the last of the fruit to ripen, pick off almost all the leaves. Tip I had but didn't use: You don't have to keep every tomato that sets. I had a LOT of tomatoes per plant, but most were very small. Next year, I'll go for less numbers, bigger individual fruit.
   


4. Don't plant under the tomatoes unless some sun is going to get in there! I tried it with pot marigolds, then with carrots. Both times, I got sprouts; then they disappeared as the leaf layer above them got thicker.
   


5. I need better trellising! I put four-foot metal tomato cages around the tomatoes, and they outgrew them. By the end of the season two of the tomato plants were lying horizontal. The flimsy plastic trellises I used for the cucumbers started leaning over even before anything had begun to lean on them. Other trellising mistakes: Often I didn't notice new growth that needed to be tied to the trellis before it had gone its own way too long, and bending it back ran the risk of breaking it. That was partly due to plants too close together, partly just not checking often enough. The zucchini did not seem amenable to trellising at all; I think it could have been if I'd started when it was younger. And I thought it was real cute at first when one of the cucumbers started climbing a tomato; then the cucumber leaves shaded by the tomato started dying. Not an experiment to repeat.
   


6. Switch to different greens in hot weather. The salad greens we started with produced wonderfully all spring. When the weather got hot, they shot up long stocks and flowered, and the leaves turned bitter. Next year, pull the spring greens as soon as the weather heats up, before they bolt. Plant some hot-weather greens (just before hot weather). Switch back to cool-weather greens in the fall.
   


7. Cherry Belle radishes don't grow well in winter. They were great all spring and summer; three weeks from planting to eating, and you can eat the thinnings too. I tried planting some the end of September and they hadn't gotten over two inches high, three months later.
   


8. Don't plant mesclun mixes unless you know what each variety looks like. I was letting weeds grow all over the garden because I didn't know what was a weed and what was unknown-green-number-eight in the mesclun seed mix. And ALL of what I thought were "Sacred Basil" seedlings turned out to be weeds. I'll try starting Sacred Basil indoors next year, and find out what the seedlings are supposed to look like. Someday I will now what every seedling of every crop and every weed looks like. Maybe by the time I'm 93.


9. Don't spend money on garden worms until you build up the organic content of the soil. It was December before it dawned on me that the reason the worms I'd added to the garden had not multiplied was, there wasn't enough for them to eat. I did build the soil up a lot, and the worms I did add survived. But they won't multiply until the soil gets rich enough to support a larger population. Instead of adding more worms, add more worm feed.
   


10. Avoid overhead watering. Really. By next spring I'm going to have a water-the-roots-only system of seep hoses put in. With the sandy soil and the raised beds, it's really impossible to over-water this garden. But damp-rot and downy mildew have made me very cautious about over-watering the leaves.